Category: Travel
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February Recap
Not a whole lot to recap for this short month, which was interrupted by the Chinese New Year break. Though we officially had a vacation of seven days, a lot of people were away from Shanghai for the full fifteen-day Spring Festival, or even longer. The owners of my favorite dumpling shop around the corner…
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Is It Ethical to Travel to North Korea?
The emails come in every week or two, and I usually delete them without bothering to read the message. I don’t even really pay much attention to the subject line, in fact; as I buzz through my inbox, once I see the sender is “Koryo Tours,” I click the box that marks the email for…
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Rebuilding Haikou’s History on Zhongshan Street
I began my Hainan trip in the capital city of Haikou, on Sunday, with plans to head down to the beach town of Sanya, Hainan’s main attraction, on Monday. I thought that since my plane landed in Haikou, I might as well explore the city a bit and see what it had to offer, not…
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Ka-BOOM! The Year of the Snake Has Arrived
I kind of hate fireworks. They’re loud, they’re unpredictable, and they involve fire, which is something I like to stay far, far away from. But this week is the Chinese New Year holiday, and the #1 way to celebrate is to light enormous bundles of fireworks, then cheer as they explode. Everyone gets into the…
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January Recap
At the end of every year, journalist and photographer Howard French posts a list at his website of all the books he read during the preceding twelve months. I decided I wanted to start doing that in 2013, but the end of December seemed too far away—when I’m excited about a book, I want to…
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The Bridges of Taishun County
Guidebooks, as I’ve said before, are a great planning aid when I want to go somewhere specific or just want to browse for travel ideas. But guidebooks, of course, have an inherent limitation: they only describe those places that have already landed on the tourist’s map. In China, this often means that fascinating but difficult…
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The Ghosts of Moganshan
Saturday, November 10: Moganshan is a ghostly place, particularly on a foggy day in early November. We arrived at the top of the mountain late Saturday morning, and after a slow lunch in one of the few restaurants open during the off-season, I set off alone to explore. I followed a newly built set of…
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On the Road
Saturday, November 10, 8:20 a.m.: The highway cutting across Zhejiang province is smooth and empty, its three lanes containing only a few trucks and tour buses in addition to our own. Just beyond the barricade separating the road from the fields that sit beside it, billboards rise every few hundred feet. Visit Xitang. Buy China…
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I Think I Need a … Guidebook?
As I packed to leave for Shanghai earlier this month, I worried about forgetting things. Most stuff, of course, I could replace here if I really had to (though not shoes—my 10WW feet are freakishly large in the U.S., let alone China), but so far I haven’t realized that I’ve forgotten anything important. One item…
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Heidelberg 2012
Thursday I don’t frequent the Evil Empire that much anymore, but Starbucks is getting my patronage today because it seems to be the only place in Heidelberg that offers air conditioning. It is stunningly hot here—ninety-plus degrees, no breeze, and not much to speak of when it comes to shade, as the Old Town features…